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Just like babies, puppies go through teething, so don't be concerned when your puppy loses milk teeth. This also means that your pup will need to chew. You can limit the damage to your shoes and furniture by providing a couple of chewing toys and snacks. As your puppy gets older, continue to offer these items to ensure its teeth are regularly cleaned.

All dogs scratch but if your pup seems to scratch excessively it may have a flea problem.

That means destroying all visible adult fleas, treating bedding, the surrounding environment and any other pets at the same time, and using an ongoing flea prevention product. If you live in an area where ticks are a problem you should regularly check your puppy for these parasites, particularly in the warmer months when ticks are most active. If you find a tick, contact your vet immediately for more advice and information on fighting fleas

Fighting fleas

Luckily keeping your puppy flea free is easy.

Like most health issues, the best form of protection is prevention. By using a long-term flea prevention product you can help to keep your puppy flea free for up to three months depending on the type of product used.

If your puppy is already infested with fleas you should treat it with a fast-acting flea treatment product to kill any of the existing fleas before using the long-term flea control product. Some supermarkets stock environmental sprays that you can use to treat your pup's bed, kennel or any of the areas that they frequent.

Many puppies are born with intestinal worms so it is important to start a treatment program as soon as possible. Treat your puppy at two, four, eight and 12 weeks of age, then every month until it is six months old. Thereafter treat every three months.

Wiping out worms

It's often a topic we would prefer to avoid, but intestinal worms are a reality for most pets with the majority of pets becoming infected at some stage during their life.

The most common types of worms (Roundworm, Hookworm) are often transmitted by the mother during pregnancy or following birth. Others become infected by ingestion, skin penetration or contact with other infected animals.

Telltale signs include:

• A dry scruffy coat with split ends
• Weight loss and an increase in appetite
• Persistently rub and lick

The good news is that treating and preventing intestinal worms is as easy as using one of the many all wormer products available from your local supermarket.

Heartworm is a potentially fatal parasite that is transmitted when mosquitoes suck up the larvae in the blood of an infected dog and then feed on a new dog.

These larvae live in the blood of their new host and eventually migrate into the right ventricle of the heart where they can grow up to 30cm in length and begin affecting the performance of this vital organ.

A dog suffering from heartworm disease may show some or all of the following symptoms:

• A soft cough
• Difficulty breathing
• Fatigue
• General listlessness
• Weight loss
• Fainting after exercise.

Some dogs do not appear to have symptoms in the early stages while others do. Signs may not be evident for several months or years. However, if it is not detected and controlled with proper treatment, the advanced symptoms of heartworm can lead to congestive heart failure and death.

This painful condition is extremely difficult to treat, but very easy to prevent by using one of the many heartworm prevention products available from your local supermarket or vet clinic.

Although it depends on the type of medication you provide, most puppies can be started on a preventive program at six weeks of age, which is then continued throughout life, often at one-month intervals, once again depending on the medication used.

Wild dogs don't need nail clippers. Out in the wild, our pets' ancestors roamed and hunted on harsh ground, and their very lifestyle kept their nails trim. But our modern day companions need their claws checked. Nails that are too long are uncomfortable for a dog, and can actually interfere with walking. An over-grown nail can curl inward, and penetrate the paw pad, leading to infection. Long nails can also break easily or catch in carpet and tear.

A dog's claws and paws are sensitive. They don't like having their claws clipped or their paws handled. Having your pet become accustomed to the procedure while they're still in puppyhood will make future pedicures less of a fuss.

Puppy's first claw clip:

When you take your pup to the vet for the first time ask them how to trim nails and let them demonstrate this for you.

• For a few days, get your pup gradually accustomed to having their paws handled.
• Keep treats handy to reward your pet for putting up with this tickly procedure.
• Use clean clippers especially designed for dogs - ideally, use clippers that have a safety mechanism (a stopper that prevents too much of the nail being cut off).
• Don't use nail clippers for humans - they are meant for our much weaker nails, and could cause the pup's nail to splinter or break.
• When cutting nails on a puppy or any other pet, it's essential to avoid cutting into the 'quick' - the area at the nail's base which contains its blood and nerve supply. In dogs, the quick isn't always easy to recognize, but in light coloured nails it looks like our nail, a pink part and a white nail part. Avoid the pink part. Always confine your trimming to the tip of the nail, and do the job in a well-lit area.
• If, despite your best efforts, you cut into the quick, use styptic powder, which will stop the bleeding. If you don't have the powder within reach, use good old-fashioned first aid and apply pressure to the wound for 1 minute.
• Nails are softest and more easily cut after a bath.
• Don't forget to cut the inside, or 'dew' claws.
• You can also use an emery board to keep nails trim or to smooth rough edges.
• Make nail checking a regular part of your pet's grooming schedule.

All puppies must be vaccinated against a number of common viruses. In general, puppies are vaccinated three times before 18 weeks and then once a year for life. If you have purchased your pup from a registered breeder or pet shop, your little friend may have begun a course of vaccinations. If this is the case, you should have received a vaccination certificate. Take this certificate to the vet upon your first visit. The vet will advise what subsequent vaccinations or booster are required.

In the past, infectious diseases such as parvovirus and distemper virus have been a significant cause of illness and death in pups. Vaccination against these and other diseases has proved to be a very effective means of muzzling these diseases.

A suitable vaccination programme will often involve an initial course of injections followed by booster injections at various times throughout your pup's life.

We should not become complacent about keeping our pup's vaccinations up-to-date. Canine distemper, canine hepatitis and canine parvovirus are capable of causing severe illness and are often fatal because there is no specific treatment available.

Another common disease is kennel cough (or canine cough) - a respiratory disease that produces a spontaneous harsh cough that often finishes with gagging. The cough can persist for several weeks or even months and may require an expensive course of treatment.

The most common vaccination for adult dogs protects them against canine distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus and the two major causes of kennel cough (canine para-influenza virus and Bordetella bronchiseptica).

Puppies attending obedience classes, shows and boarding kennels should be fully vaccinated to protect both themselves and other dogs from these highly contagious diseases. Most vets will also recommend that puppies be given annual booster shots to help maintain their immunity levels against these diseases.

The good news is that, with the advancements that have been made in today's medical science, vaccines rarely cause side effects. However, if you are concerned about annual boosters ask your vet to assess your pup's risk factors and provide a customised vaccination program.

Vaccination time is also a great opportunity for your puppy to have an annual health check.

The breed of your pup will determine the amount of time you'll need to spend grooming. Long-haired breeds will probably need brushing every day, and short-haired breeds only once a week.

Your puppy should be accustomed to being combed and brushed, as this will allow you to regularly check your four-legged friend for fleas, ticks or any other potential problems.

Regular grooming, with particular attention to problem areas such as ears and body folds, will help maintain a healthy coat.

Bathing is another very important part of looking after your pup - bathing your puppy with a medicated shampoo will remove excess dirt and promote healthy skin.

Regular grooming is an important part of keeping your puppy looking and feeling its best. Grooming is also a good way of spending time with your pet and should be an enjoyable experience for both of you.

Grooming is a good opportunity to check the condition of your pup's coat and skin as well as looking for any abnormalities such as swellings, wounds or evidence of parasites.

If you notice anything out of the ordinary, contact your vet for further advice.

Long-haired puppies need to be groomed several times a week, while short-haired puppies may only need grooming once a week, depending on the condition of the coat. It is better to spend a short time every two or three days than to leave the coat ungroomed and encourage matted hairs.

Depending on your puppy's coat you may need different types of grooming tools, which you should keep especially for your pup. The best tool for grooming short-haired coats (for example a Boxer or Pug) is a soft brush or rubber brush that will remove hair. Medium haired or double coats (for example Border Collie or German Shepherd) will require something like a slicker brush to strip the coat. Long haired breeds or dogs with "feathering" (like Irish Setters or Spaniels) will also need a comb to remove knots from their long hair.

The earlier you start getting your puppy used to regular grooming, even in the ticklish spots, the better.

Groom your puppy from the head downwards, running the brush or the comb in the direction of its hair. You may need to lift the upper hair if it has a thick undercoat, brushing to remove dead hair and mats. If you can put a comb through the hair without catching knots, you know that you have thoroughly groomed your puppy.